Thursday: Kennin-ji, The First Zen Temple in Japan

This is the Sanmon, the "Mountain Gate" that you pass through to enter Kennin-ji, the first Zen temple in Japan.  It was founded by Eisai, who brought Rinzai Zen to Japan in 1202.  To think that Eisai and Dogen walked these grounds gave me a little chill.  Yes, Dogen - he started here under Myozen before leaving to China and losing his way (just kidding, my Soto friends).  

These gates are massive and traditionally house a Buddha figure on the top floor, flanked by the 16 arhats.  We couldn't go up this one, but I found 16 other arhats inside... you'll see.  

I once asked Sasaki Roshi about some kind Mountain Gate for Mt. Baldy Zen Center - even a tiny one.  He suggested two charred logs set to the left and right as you enter.  That was his spare style - sadly we never did get around to it.  

Kennin-ji is a sprawling complex, with sub-temples to the right as you enter, including an active group of training monks.  As we left in the afternoon we heard bells being struck from the direction of the monastery - I figure they were probably starting banka (afternoon chanting).  

A subtemple on the way in.  

A small inner garden.  I love these little gardens - every open space at a temple like this is turned into something beautiful and contemplative.  

This place is strict.  

Contemplating the larger Zen garden.  There are many young ladies dressed in traditional garb walking around Kyoto.  Almost all have rented the outfit from a local shop (see next post for more).  

Contemplating the same garden.  Someone asked me to take their photo in this spot, and then insisted I trade places with him...

Sheila and Wes.

The gardens keep getting larger at Kennin-ji as you go deeper in - and this is the piece de resistance, a stunning garden that forms an L around a building.  

How does a monk do this and get out again?  There's a koan for you.  

I found 16 arhats inside, fantastic figures made of clay about 100 years ago in celebration of Kennin-ji's 700th anniversary.  

Is this Bodhidharma?  Whoever it is, I like him.  

For the 800th anniversary an artist took two years to paint these two dragon onto an 11 meter by 16 meter piece of traditional Japanese paper.  He did it in a school gym in Hokkaido.  Somehow they stuck it onto the ceiling of the main Dharma hall.  It's stunning.  

In that same hall here's the Buddha flanked by his wingmen Ananda and Mahakasyapa, all dramatically lit.  

Here's a sweet story to end on.  I asked a Japanese woman if I could take her photo while she copied the Heart Sutra in a shrine room.  For a fee you can get some beautiful rice paper, a brush and ink.  She agreed, and here she is, diligently copying.  

As we were leaving the same woman came up to me and handed me a piece of paper and a brush - she'd been looking for me.  It was the brush she'd used to write with (she laughed and said it's made in China), and it was the Heart Sutra written here last year.  I was so moved - I thanked her, then after a minute ran after her to ask whether I could take her photo again.  Here she is, and here's her work, ready to go up in my office.